Running Through Landslides: My Phoksundo Story

My Journey to Phoksundo: An Adventure of a Lifetime

Phoksundo Lake had always been a dream destination for me — a place of pure beauty and adventure tucked away in the remote district of Dolpa. Finally, I decided to make that dream a reality, and what followed was a journey filled with breathtaking views, endless trekking, wild experiences, and unforgettable memories.

Day 1: The Long Ride to Dolpa

My adventure kicked off at Machhapokhari, Kathmandu, where I boarded a bus named Battalion Yatayat. Though I reached the bus station around 10:45 AM, the bus only departed at 2:30 PM — the excitement kept me patient.

What followed was a 32-hour bumpy, dusty, thrilling road trip across Nepal’s rugged highways.

After two exhausting days on the road, I finally reached Dolpa at around 8 PM, and we checked into Mayur Hotel for the night.

Bus fare: Rs. 4500 per person.

Day 2: The Trek Begins – Suligad to Rechii

The real journey started the next morning.

After taking a trekking permit at the Suligad army camp, we began our hike.

First stop: Sanga, where we fueled up with some roti.

Then, we continued to Chepka for lunch.

After lunch, the trail became tougher — about four hours of walking from Chepka to Rechii.

With only two tea houses along the way, the trail felt remote and wild.

We stayed at Hotel Paunaghar in Rechii (Rs. 1200 for a room with attached bathroom + Rs. 500 for dal bhat with egg).

It was a long, tiring day, but a fulfilling one.

Day 3: Rechii to Rigmo Village – Gateway to Phoksundo

The next morning, we trekked from Rechii to Rigmo Village.

We had lunch at Jharana Hotel (1.5 hours from Rechii).

Then, trekked for another three hours to Rigmo Village.

Reaching Rigmo felt like stepping into a dream — a small, peaceful village surrounded by towering cliffs and the magical blue waters of Phoksundo.

That evening, we just vibed by the lake, clicked pictures, and enjoyed the pure, raw beauty of nature.

Day 4: Phoksundo Viewpoints and Sprinting Downhill

The next morning, after a quick breakfast of faphar ko roti (buckwheat bread), we hiked up to the famous Phoksundo viewpoints.

We reached Viewpoint 1 and 2, both offering stunning views of the Y-shaped Phoksundo Lake.

The view was absolutely breathtaking — endless blue waters surrounded by stark mountains.

After soaking it all in and clicking some beautiful photos, we returned to Rigmo Village around noon.

We waited for lunch (rice was still being cooked!) and after eating, it was time for the descent.

We sprinted downhill — it took us just one hour to reach the Jharana Hotel again, where we took a short break with some Frooti juice.

Then, we continued our sprint down to Rechii, staying again at Hotel Paunaghar. Dinner, laughter, and deep sleep followed.

Day 5: Landslides and the Wild Rush

The next day, after a relaxed start and a breakfast of faphar ko roti with honey and tea, we continued our descent.

It took us about 2 hours to reach Chepka.

Then we walked further to Swagat Hotel for lunch.

Our plan was ambitious — reach Dunai by evening.

But Mother Nature had her own plans.

On the way, we hit a landslide zone.

Suddenly, rocks started tumbling down the mountainside. We heard a voice shouting, "Run, run!" from the other end.

Without thinking twice, we sprinted across the landslide area, rocks hitting around us — it was the craziest experience of my life.

Adrenaline, fear, and survival instincts all mixed together — an experience I’ll never forget.

Day 6: Back to Suligad, and the Road Home

After surviving the landslides, we finally made it back to Suligad army checkpoint, where the Battalion Yatayat crew arranged a jeep to pick us up.

They dropped us at Hotel Blue Sheep — by far, the best hotel we stayed at during the trip.

That night, we celebrated with a campfire, music, and stories under the stars — the perfect way to end an incredible trek.

Day 7: 32 Hours Back to Kathmandu

Early next morning, we headed to the bus station.

At first, we got lucky with the best seats in the bus, but due to a lack of passengers, the bus owner decided to stop at Jajarkot.

We weren’t ready to be stuck, so we hopped onto a different bus — this time grabbing the back seats, which made for a wild and bumpy ride.

Another 32 hours of dusty, dizzy travel, and finally, late at night, I arrived back at Latham — tired, dirty, but insanely happy.

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Final Thoughts

This journey wasn’t just about reaching Phoksundo.

It was about endurance, friendship, fear, beauty, and freedom.

The path was hard, the roads were rough, and sometimes the dangers were real — but the memories I made, the people I met, and the moments I lived through made it one of the best experiences of my life.

If you're looking for adventure, if you're ready to lose yourself in the raw heart of nature, Phoksundo is calling.